Finally got to see Casa Coppi today, in one of those rare incidents that restore my faith in humanity.
The abridged version: planned to do a few hours in the hills round Castellania.
Just out of Novi Ligure met a guy who spoke no English, who guidedme back to Castellania, where we hung out, visited the Casa which was actually open, then did a quick loop up a (maybe) 300m climb then back to Novi via the birthplace of Costante Girardengo, the original Italian Campionissimo. Because he lived to a ripe old age, he apparently doesn't get a bloody great monument.
Breakfast tomorrow will be at the stazione, before catching the 6:20 to Reggio Emilia. I have 2 alternate plans:
1/ ride about 50km to Toana, and stay at the ancestral farm-now-holiday house of my friend Ricki's in laws;
2/ head for La Spezia, and hope that I find somewhere to stay before it gets dark.
On arrival at La Spezia, if CTB is not imminent and I am not totally buggered & demoralised, I will go inland from Massa, and probably loop down towards Lucca.